Trips and short breaks close to home: Metz

CONTEMPORARY ART AT THE CENTRE POMPIDOU

The impressive museum of contemporary art, designed by Shigeru Ban and Jean de Gastines, is an architectural masterpiece: its wide-span, tent-like roofs and central spire, standing 77 metres tall, are reminiscent of a modern chapiteau. The Centre Pompidou-Metz is an art centre for modern and contemporary art, whose cultural programme includes the presentation of temporary exhibitions and the organisation of live performances, film screenings and conferences. The Pompidou is currently (as of early 2026) hosting a number of exciting exhibitions. For example, from June 2025 to February 2026, the exhibition ‘Copistes’ is running, an unusual homage to classical masterpieces, reinterpreted by contemporary artists. At the same time, the museum is showing ‘La mélodie du vivant’ (13 September 2025 to 11 January) and, since October 2025, a major exhibition of over 400 works from the collections of the Centre Pompidou Paris entitled ‘imanche sans fin’: in dialogue with around 40 works by Maurizio Cattelan.

The Pompidou-Metz has more highlights in store for 2026: from 24 January to 31 August, Louise Nevelson – ‘Mrs. N’s Palace’ will be on display, featuring her monumental assemblages full of light and shadow. An exhibition on Marina Abramović is also planned, featuring participatory performances. In addition, major retrospectives on François Morellet, Séraphine de Senlis and even Shigeru Ban himself are planned.

The Pompidou-Metz’s permanent collection is also impressive: the museum regularly borrows works from the Centre Pompidou Paris’s collection of around 140,000 works, including paintings, sculptures, abstract and figurative works by Malevich, Miró, Rosemarie Trockel and others.

EMPEROR’S VILLAS AND CHAGALL’S CHURCH WINDOWS

But Metz is more than just its museum. The city of Metz is an important administrative centre: Metz is a prefecture, the centre of the region and was formerly politically significant in the ‘Quartier impérial’. The old city centre captivates with its elegant imperial villa architecture, wide avenues, but also narrow, charming alleys.

A particularly impressive building is the Gothic Saint-Étienne Cathedral in Metz: built from the region’s typical yellowish Jaumont stone, it extends over an imposing nave and features spectacular vitraux, including works by Marc Chagall. These colourful stained glass windows lend the interior a luminous spirituality, especially in sunlight.

Strolling through the old town, you will discover small shops, traditional boulangeries and pâtisseries, as well as excellent butchers. In Metz, you will find bakers, cake makers and butchers who have been awarded the title of ‘Meilleurs Ouvriers de France’ – quality you can taste when you enjoy freshly baked bread, French specialities or finely matured meat.

TOP RESTAURANTS AND ‘MEILLEURS OUVRIERS DE FRANCE’

Metz also has a lot to offer in terms of cuisine, especially for couples who want to treat themselves. Right in the museum, there is the Japanese-French restaurant Umé & Yozora, which offers very fine, elegant cuisine, ideal for a romantic dinner after a visit to the museum. For a romantic dinner, we recommend Le Chat Noir (classic gastronomy) in a quiet location, ideal for couples.

Yozora, the only Michelin-starred restaurant in Metz (1 star), is located in the Centre Pompidou-Metz and is run by chef Charles Coulombeau. A fusion of French and Japanese cuisine, with an omakase menu.

La Lanterne, classified by the Michelin Guide in the ‘modern cuisine’ category. Located in Metz, it offers an elegant atmosphere and contemporary cuisine.

Le Jardin de Bellevue, another restaurant with ‘modern cuisine’ according to the Michelin Guide. Modern ambience, pleasant surroundings, well suited for a romantic or quiet dinner.

83 Restaurant, address: 83 rue Mazelle, Metz Cuisine: Italian/Provençal, relaxed but refined ambience, according to Michelin.

MOF in Metz:

Franck Fresson – pastry chef and delicatessen owner, MOF Pâtissier. His boutique is located in Metz, at 17 rue du Grand Cerf. L’Académie du Goût

Jérôme Schwalbach – MOF baker (2015). He is mentioned for the typical ‘Baguette Mosellane’. Moselle

Joël Schwalbach – also MOF baker (2015). Mentioned as a trainer in Metz.

Boucherie Eric Humbert 8, rue du Grand Cerf, Metz. L’Académie du Goût+1 Butcher Frédéric Riffaud is Meilleur Ouvrier de France (MOF) and the shop offers high-quality meat, regional sausages, etc.

Pâtisserie Bourguignon, address 31, rue de la Tête d’Or, Metz. Bourguignon Metz They have collaborated with Angelo Musa, MOF pastry chef and confectioner, to develop high-quality creations.

HOTEL DESIGN BY PHILIPPE STARCK AND MAGNIFICENT PARKS

The brand new Maison Heler hotel, designed by Philippe Starck, offers attractive weekend deals, especially for couples who appreciate comfort, design and tranquillity. In addition, the design hotel Maison Heler, designed by Philippe Starck, is an attraction in itself: a modern tower building topped with a mini Gothic villa and a rooftop restaurant with panoramic views.

For relaxing hours in nature, I recommend the Jardins Jean-Marie Pelt, also known as the Seille Park. The park covers around 20 hectares, runs along the Seille and is a perfect green oasis for walks, picnics or quiet moments. With its meadows, vines, hops and mirabelle plum trees, it harmoniously combines nature and urban space.

A short weekend in Metz is especially worthwhile during the Christmas season: the city lights, festive decorations and intimate Christmas market create a warm, less touristy atmosphere than other large Christmas markets in France. For all art and architecture fans, the end of the year is a wonderful opportunity to rediscover this cosy city with peaceful walks and fine dining.

Lydia Mutsch